BLUE OVAL ENGINE SWAP
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My opinion is completely opposite of the opinion given above. The Y-block is inherently unreliable. It has very poorly designed heads, which makes performance very limited from that engine. The only easy part is the engine mounts are available in the aftermarket, but that engine is mounted in the front center and back transmission crossmember. The engine mounts fail frequently. Your transmission will bolt up to the Y-block, but that transmission is really garbage. When I was in high school, we got to the place that we could repair that transmission literally blindfolded . That was from lots and lots of practice.
A very straightforward swap would be a Ford Windsor 351. Those engines are reasonably priced, readily available and simply installed. There is a mount referred to as a saddle mount. It is designed to match up to the late model, side mounts of the Windsor motor. Transmission wise, if you want to keep a three speed, Ford build some very strong, three speed transmissions that will bolt up to the Windsor. It requires what is referred to as a small block bell housing. You will also have available with that engine , a couple of very very strong four-speed transmission, or if you decide to go automatic, you have both the C4 and the C6 transmissions. Other items such as headers are readily available as are complete 12 V conversions.
If you need some questions answered, or some help, please feel free to reach out to me. My phone number is 408–9 30–4065. DTW, I belong to the F 100 elite club. Our members all own 1954-1956 F-100 trucks. All members are using late model engines. A bit more involved, but simple to install are Ford 460 engines.
Don is right on target. I’m kind of an old school guy, so I like the FE family of motors. If you replace a 292 Y-block with a 390 FE, you get another 100 cubic inches, another 100 horse power, and if you install an aluminum intake manifold on the FE, they weigh about the same. The 351 is a good choice for several reasons. It is physically both smaller and lighter than the Y-block or FE, and like the FE motor, it has a huge supply of factory and aftermarket performance parts.
Done a few custom builds on those old 223 fords. Boy they run strong when rebuilt properly. Nothing beats than inline six , Has good torque
1954 Ford engine and Trans swap and upgrades done right check it out first as questions if you want I have all the info. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQKpaCKNIAc&t=25s
You tube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQKpaCKNIAc&t=25s no BS just facts
I would consider a 351 Windsor motor
Here is the way I did it and I think it is by fay the very best way to go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuoIF_IhgzM&t=36s and this link too:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQKpaCKNIAc&t=25s have questions email me for the facts on how I did it. You’ll love it if you follow my way.
I’d like to replace the motor in my 1954 Mercury 2 dr. V8 standard shift what is the easiest v8 to swap with and what should be approx. cost?
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Any Y-block, 289/302, and any FE motor are a direct bolt-in for a 1954 and later full-size Ford car. All Y-blocks and FE motors use the same motor mount. The earlier mounts used two studs on the frame side of the mount, around 1960, Ford changed that to one stud on the frame side of the mount. If you are putting an FE in a pre 60’s Ford you can just use the 2-stud mount, or drill a hole in between the two slotted holes on your pre-60’s frame motor mount pad and use the single stud mount. If you want to install a 289/302 in a 1954 to 1962 full size ford, just use the 1963 and later Ford motor mounts used to by the factory to install 289/302’s in Galaxies, 300 sedans, wagons, etc. If you want to use a manual trans, the engine mounted clutch linkage pivot ball lines up perfectly. If you want to use a Cruis-O-Matic to replace the early Ford-O-Matic two-speed auto, it’s a direct bolt-in, and they use a vacuum modulator instead of mechanical linkage. If you plan to use a C-6 or C-4, you can still use your existing crossmember, but because of different transmission lengthes, you will need to weld a 3/16″ plate onto your existing crossmember and re-drill the trans mount holes so they line up with the new trans mount studs. The emergency brake pivot still works. 1954-56 Transmission yokes and u-joints are very different, mainly smaller and weaker. It’s just better and wiser to have a drive shaft shop make up a new drive shaft with a new yoke that matches your trans splines, and has the larger u-joints. You will need a later u-joint mount on your 1954-56 differential if you plan to keep the original axle, or you can have the drive shaft shop attatch the old style smaller u-joint on the differential end of your drive shaft. Personally, I think its better to just swap in a complete 1957-59 (later years are too wide) 9-inch rear axle. You get the larger u-joint, bigger brakes, stronger axles, and the emergency brake cables match up.
Hi i have a 1963 ford fairlane with a 260 and it is 2 speed auto i am going to swap it for a 302 and c4 trans do i need diffrent mounts for motor and diffrent mounts for trans and will the splines on the drive shaft fit the other trans please let me know with any help from you would be great thankyou cheers.
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In a word – – – No. However, the transmission bolt pattern is identical, so a trans (3-speed 4-speed) that bolts up to a y-block will bolt up to a 289/302. Unless you added a lot of horse power to your 289/302, the early Borg-Warner y-block 3-speeds will stand up to the 289/302 engine just fine. Just don’t wind up the engine and dump the clutch. If you are really concerned about 3-speed transmission strength, look for a curved side cover Borg-Warner T-85 3-speed transmission. They have the same gear strength as a T-10. They are still out there. try ebay. They came behind some Mercury and Ford Y-blocks, starting in 1956, and all FE engine 3-speed applications until around 1965 or 1966 when the all syncro 3-speed showed up.
Will a 272 bell housing fit a 302 ford
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350 with 700R into 1998 Jeep Wrangler sport
Can I get som input on upgrading a 56 Buick special. I rebuilt a 57model nailhead but ran into problems. I would consider going to a Chevy engine but that would require a total swapout.im stuck!
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I would definitely use a later 302 with FI & EECIV along with an AOD transmission. Convert front brakes to disc & dual master cylinder. Replace the steering column with a later collapsible tilt column. A ‘54 has a ball joint front end, which makes this swap much easier than in previous years. The 302 is much lighter than any y-block & produces better power. If you can find a ‘90 full size with 302, it will provide much of the parts that you need.
i own a 1952 ford customline that i been upgrading for 5 years and almost done. i installed a 302 and 5 speed trans from a 1985 mustang. The car runs and shifts great. The only problem i have is the front suspension. I installed tubular a arms and ball joints and rack and pinion. Had a front end shop do the alignment, But the car still has bump steer and the steering wheel doesn`t come back when coming out of a turn. I need info on how to do my own alignment. Thanks. Eddie Rapp
Thank you for being patient while I reached out to the experts, here is the reply:
Sorry to hear you’re having trouble Eddie, alignment often will not resolve the suspension geometry issues that create Bump Steer.
I would contact the A-Arm manufacturer and get their recommendations and seek out an alignment shop that caters to street rod and performance enthusiasts, where they’ll have the equipment to properly measure the bump steer throughout the suspension travel. You can also purchase home bump steer measuring tools like this one:
Often A-arm kits are designed to mimic stock suspension, but then the suspension is lowered throwing off the suspension geometry.
Most at-home systems are not a replacement for an alignment rack in a qualified shop, but rather a means to get it close so you can drive it to the shop.
I know not the answer you probably want but at the price of classic car tires a good alignment is money well spent.
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My question is there a newer transmission that will connect to a 1955 Ford F-100 233 6 cylinder without many problems?
Hi George. To make the conversion you’ll need a transmission adapter.
Bendtsen Transmission makes the Speed Gem adapters that would even let your connect a AOD transmission to your engine.
Here is a link to their site: http://www.transmissionadapters.com
Tell Bob we sent you!
You may also find an adapter to a C4 transmission from Wilcap.
Here is a link to their site:
Wrench Safe, Mark-CCRC
I did a similar swap. A1996 302 ho/a.o.d. trans. into a 1956 f100. Some items:
1.unit fit with no mod, cutting of body or frame. Had to make motor mount frame parts. Used I-Beam welded up to fit C shaped frame and stock ford motor mounts. rear trans mount required a different cross unit (found on a junked truck). The unit sits low, but everything fit nicely fit over the solid axil and old cross member. This required a new drive shaft (note that the shaft has offset, so u-joints have angle.)
2.The cooling may need modification. I had to add a trans cooler and a electric fan (this is a 2 speed unit out of a Lincoln) since the engine fan was to low to cool to radiator. Check that cap used is proper for the radiator or you can blow it. An electric fuel pump was needed since the there was no michanica pump.
You electrical system may be a consideration. 54 is 6 volt + ground generator ,302 is 12 volt – ground.
3.My motor required changing water pump, intake with 2 bblo carb, distributor with electronic module and change of distributor grear.
These are some of the main things I can think of and there are small things not covered. I did all work and fabrication of the swap in my garage. Iwill add a good friend, that found the motor/trans and has a long history of working of Fords and swaps.
You can do the swap, just remember take your time, think out you moves and the think it over a second time before starting.
The swap of a 302 or 351 Windsor version Ford motor into a 54 Ford is a popular swap and not that difficult. Anyone with experience in swapping later engines into early cars can do it. The usual swap includes an automatic transmission C4, C6 or AOD and a Mustang, Comet, Meteor, Versailles or similar size Ford rear axle assembly. Radiator hose connection moving can be done by any competent radiator repair shop. Wiring should be upgraded too, as well as 12v alternator, coil, regulator, light bulbs, etc. The brakes and steering components should also be upgraded with disc brakes, dual master cylinder and power rack and pinion steering or Borgeson power unit. If done properly, you will end up with a car that drives like a modern car, but still looks like an old classic.Might as well add AC while you are at it. Hope this helps, have fun.
I’m suggesting ypu consider a a late model complete front crossmember off a Lincoln or crownvic. It’s complete and easily installed. Street rod mounts and use an overdrive trans. Or can use a manual transmission if preferences dictate. Fuel milage is much better than the old yblocks. And parts are expensive for any yblocks. Twice to three times. Plus if using later model if traveling and have issues you can get parts anywhere for it then
I would suggest using a Ford Crown Vic cop car as a perfect donor car for everything. They are quite common, heavy duty, and have lots of options to put into the old girl.
The 4.6 5.4 engine won’t fit without a subframe kit so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQKpaCKNIAc&t=25s This it the best and cheapest way to go.
I have a 1954 ford two door coupe with a 351 cleveland engine the only problem was the motor mounts and the trans mounts, warren
Warren, did you use a front or rear sump oil pan ?
BACK IN THE LATE 50’S TO EARLY 60’S I WORKED ON A LOT OF FORD Y BLOCKS. ONE 1954 FORD HAD FACTORY 239 WITH 2 BARREL CARB. RATED AT 130 HP REMOBED IT AND REPLACED IT WITH A1956 MERCURY 312 WHICH CAME WITH FACTORY 4 BARREL CARB AND WAS RATED AT 230 HP I BELIEVE. THIS MADE A HUGE PERFORMANCE INCREASE. IN 1968 WE RACED AT THE U.S. NATIONALS WITH A 57 CHEVY. SEDAN DELIVERY IN STOCK ELIMINATOR. IT WAS POWERED BY A STOCK LEGAL 283 HP ROCHESTER FUEL INJECTED 283. WE RAN CLASS AGAINST AN IMPRESSIVE 57 FORD STATION WAGON POWERED BY A FORD 312 ” Y” BLOCK WITH FACTORY SUPERCHARGER. WE HAD THE NHRA RECORD AT THE TIME BUT THE FORD BEAT US, BECAUSE OUR CAR RAN OUT OF GAS AT HALF TRACK. I ALSO HAVE A FRIEND IN MY GALAXIE CLUB THAT BUILT HIS DAILY DRIVER, A 1955 MAINLINE WITH A 460 FORD. ANOTHER COMMON SWAP IS TO USE A FORD FE ENGINE LIKE A 332-428. WHICH ORIGINATED IN 1958. AT THE SAME TIME THEY STILL USED THE “Y”. BLOCK. THIS SHOULD BE ALMOST A BOLT IN SWAP.
I have found that using motor mounts from the early small block fords IE (260 – 289) from 63 – 64 full & mid-size car’s will allow the 302 to fit in the older cars, the mount bolts on the block & has a stud bolting it to the motor mount block on the frame, you will have to up grade the transmission to fit the new engine & may have to modify your existing cross-member to accommodate the new transmission
Hello there. The very best place for information on your 54′ Mainline, is to go to the 1954 Ford Club of America. The Club Members are 54′ Ford Enthusiasts and many members have done this 302 swap, so the should know all of the tricks of this procedure. Here is the link, http://www.1954ford.com/. I also have a 54′ Customline, but it has a 1959 Mercury 312 in it.
The President of the 54 Club wrote me and loves the way i did it.
On this swap, I did a similar swap in a ’56 F100. I had (and still do) 233 with the 4 speed granny stick. The change was made to a low milage ’92 HO 302 that had burned on the top (manifold and F.i.)and with the AOD trans. This made a very nice swap. It will require thinking about some engine modifications, if you use an engine of this year or later .later.
The mounting for this engine is different than the 233. The 233 has one front and two mounts on the engine and no trans. mount ,but the 302 has two mounts on the side of the engine and one at the rear of the trans… I fabricated mounting plates from an I beam and bolted and welded the to the side rails ans found a rear cross member and floor shifter on a junked little later ford pickup. Iused stock motor and trans. mounts Becase of the F 100’s underside space no cutting was required. You will need a new drive shaft and make sure there is some vertical offset between the trans and rear end (there should not be a straight line relationship.
There are too many small things to go into, and their are many, but overall this was a nice conversion and done by myself on one side of a plain old two car garage with much junk around. I would also include that I had much tech help from a great friend,Kenny, that is a certified Ford nut. I hope this helps, there are probably differences in the units one that would be main going from a 6 volt positive ground to a 12 volt negative ground system. Good luck
There are motor mount kits and cross members. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Engine-Mount-Kits,60386.html
I helped on a swap with a 49 Ford. We had to notch the front cross member to clear the oil filter.