BLUE OVAL ENGINE SWAP

By CCRC Editors & filed under Technical Q&A for Classic Cars.

LKR050106

Q:

I have a 1954 Ford Mainline two-door sedan, and my husband is restoring and updating it. We want to change engines since it’s got the original 223-inch 6-cylinder. We’d like to install a later 302-inch (5.0-liter) Ford V-8. We cannot find any information on this swap, specifically regarding motor mounts. Can you help? Also, will the bellhousing from the original 6-cylinder engine fit the 302? The transmission is a 3-speed manual. Any help or direction you can offer will be greatly appreciated. Heather Fuller Lexington, NC

A:

The easiest V-8 swap would be to go with a Y-block Ford V-8, since they were offered in your car. While the Y-block won’t have the kick of the later 302, it could have plenty more power than the six. It would be a relatively easy upgrade since so many factory parts could be used, and modifications would be minimal. There are plenty of great hot rod options for the Y-block out there now to make it a true performer, and it would certainly be ‘period correct’ if you’re after a ’50s style. There are some great new parts that have been developed for this engine, including a new single 4-barrel carb intake, MSD ignition, and ’50s-style ribbed valve covers. Whether it’s a 239, 272, 292, or 312-inch Y-block, it could be fine, but naturally the larger displacements are preferred. These engines are relatively affordable and shouldn’t be too hard to locate. If you’re committed to the later model 302, you should consider a subframe swap. By upgrading the entire front suspension, you’d get plenty of modern goodies like disc brakes, power steering, and plenty of room to run headers, etc. This would also allow you to use factory-type 302 motor mounts and other accessories with relative ease. TinMan Fabrication also makes a fair number of engine mounts, however this would be a hot rod installation and require some fabrication. The bellhousing patterns between your early 6-cylinder and the later 302 are very different. Besides, the early Ford 3-speed stick was never designed to handle the kind of torque the later 302 makes. If you could get it all hooked up and working, it probably wouldn’t last too long. So, those are just a few options you’ve got to choose from. You can update everything from the firewall forward to give modern ride, braking ability, and ease of engine/transmission installation, or you can keep most of the original chassis and upgrade using ’50s period parts with modern upgrades. The ’54 Mainline is not among the most popular of cars, so there’s not a wide range of aftermarket options out there for you (like the ’55-’57 Chevy, for instance.) Your choice of vehicle will make it really stand out among the rest once it’s done, but finding parts and pieces will surely be more challenging. Mark Simpson Managing Editor
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36 Responses to “BLUE OVAL ENGINE SWAP”

  1. Don rector

    My opinion is completely opposite of the opinion given above. The Y-block is inherently unreliable. It has very poorly designed heads, which makes performance very limited from that engine. The only easy part is the engine mounts are available in the aftermarket, but that engine is mounted in the front center and back transmission crossmember. The engine mounts fail frequently. Your transmission will bolt up to the Y-block, but that transmission is really garbage. When I was in high school, we got to the place that we could repair that transmission literally blindfolded . That was from lots and lots of practice.

    A very straightforward swap would be a Ford Windsor 351. Those engines are reasonably priced, readily available and simply installed. There is a mount referred to as a saddle mount. It is designed to match up to the late model, side mounts of the Windsor motor. Transmission wise, if you want to keep a three speed, Ford build some very strong, three speed transmissions that will bolt up to the Windsor. It requires what is referred to as a small block bell housing. You will also have available with that engine , a couple of very very strong four-speed transmission, or if you decide to go automatic, you have both the C4 and the C6 transmissions. Other items such as headers are readily available as are complete 12 V conversions.

    If you need some questions answered, or some help, please feel free to reach out to me. My phone number is 408–9 30–4065. DTW, I belong to the F 100 elite club. Our members all own 1954-1956 F-100 trucks. All members are using late model engines. A bit more involved, but simple to install are Ford 460 engines.

    Reply
    • William Carter

      Don is right on target. I’m kind of an old school guy, so I like the FE family of motors. If you replace a 292 Y-block with a 390 FE, you get another 100 cubic inches, another 100 horse power, and if you install an aluminum intake manifold on the FE, they weigh about the same. The 351 is a good choice for several reasons. It is physically both smaller and lighter than the Y-block or FE, and like the FE motor, it has a huge supply of factory and aftermarket performance parts.

      Reply
  2. Ron

    Done a few custom builds on those old 223 fords. Boy they run strong when rebuilt properly. Nothing beats than inline six , Has good torque

    Reply
  7. Steve Ross

    I’d like to replace the motor in my 1954 Mercury 2 dr. V8 standard shift what is the easiest v8 to swap with and what should be approx. cost?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Steve,

      Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.

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    • William Carter

      Any Y-block, 289/302, and any FE motor are a direct bolt-in for a 1954 and later full-size Ford car. All Y-blocks and FE motors use the same motor mount. The earlier mounts used two studs on the frame side of the mount, around 1960, Ford changed that to one stud on the frame side of the mount. If you are putting an FE in a pre 60’s Ford you can just use the 2-stud mount, or drill a hole in between the two slotted holes on your pre-60’s frame motor mount pad and use the single stud mount. If you want to install a 289/302 in a 1954 to 1962 full size ford, just use the 1963 and later Ford motor mounts used to by the factory to install 289/302’s in Galaxies, 300 sedans, wagons, etc. If you want to use a manual trans, the engine mounted clutch linkage pivot ball lines up perfectly. If you want to use a Cruis-O-Matic to replace the early Ford-O-Matic two-speed auto, it’s a direct bolt-in, and they use a vacuum modulator instead of mechanical linkage. If you plan to use a C-6 or C-4, you can still use your existing crossmember, but because of different transmission lengthes, you will need to weld a 3/16″ plate onto your existing crossmember and re-drill the trans mount holes so they line up with the new trans mount studs. The emergency brake pivot still works. 1954-56 Transmission yokes and u-joints are very different, mainly smaller and weaker. It’s just better and wiser to have a drive shaft shop make up a new drive shaft with a new yoke that matches your trans splines, and has the larger u-joints. You will need a later u-joint mount on your 1954-56 differential if you plan to keep the original axle, or you can have the drive shaft shop attatch the old style smaller u-joint on the differential end of your drive shaft. Personally, I think its better to just swap in a complete 1957-59 (later years are too wide) 9-inch rear axle. You get the larger u-joint, bigger brakes, stronger axles, and the emergency brake cables match up.

      Reply
  8. john mangles

    Hi i have a 1963 ford fairlane with a 260 and it is 2 speed auto i am going to swap it for a 302 and c4 trans do i need diffrent mounts for motor and diffrent mounts for trans and will the splines on the drive shaft fit the other trans please let me know with any help from you would be great thankyou cheers.

    Reply
    • Customer Service

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    • William Carter

      In a word – – – No. However, the transmission bolt pattern is identical, so a trans (3-speed 4-speed) that bolts up to a y-block will bolt up to a 289/302. Unless you added a lot of horse power to your 289/302, the early Borg-Warner y-block 3-speeds will stand up to the 289/302 engine just fine. Just don’t wind up the engine and dump the clutch. If you are really concerned about 3-speed transmission strength, look for a curved side cover Borg-Warner T-85 3-speed transmission. They have the same gear strength as a T-10. They are still out there. try ebay. They came behind some Mercury and Ford Y-blocks, starting in 1956, and all FE engine 3-speed applications until around 1965 or 1966 when the all syncro 3-speed showed up.

      Reply
    • Customer Service

      Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in      . With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.

      Please click on the special offer below:

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      Thanks!

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  11. Aubrey Sheats

    Can I get som input on upgrading a 56 Buick special. I rebuilt a 57model nailhead but ran into problems. I would consider going to a Chevy engine but that would require a total swapout.im stuck!

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hello Aubrey,

      Thank you for contacting us. Great question! The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for members of our online community. By becoming a member, you will have access to our expert’s knowledge in car restoration. With your membership you will also receive discounts on products and hours of Premium video content.
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  12. Raymond

    I would definitely use a later 302 with FI & EECIV along with an AOD transmission. Convert front brakes to disc & dual master cylinder. Replace the steering column with a later collapsible tilt column. A ‘54 has a ball joint front end, which makes this swap much easier than in previous years. The 302 is much lighter than any y-block & produces better power. If you can find a ‘90 full size with 302, it will provide much of the parts that you need.

    Reply
  13. Edward Rappleyea

    i own a 1952 ford customline that i been upgrading for 5 years and almost done. i installed a 302 and 5 speed trans from a 1985 mustang. The car runs and shifts great. The only problem i have is the front suspension. I installed tubular a arms and ball joints and rack and pinion. Had a front end shop do the alignment, But the car still has bump steer and the steering wheel doesn`t come back when coming out of a turn. I need info on how to do my own alignment. Thanks. Eddie Rapp

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi Edward,

      Thank you for being patient while I reached out to the experts, here is the reply:

      Sorry to hear you’re having trouble Eddie, alignment often will not resolve the suspension geometry issues that create Bump Steer.
      I would contact the A-Arm manufacturer and get their recommendations and seek out an alignment shop that caters to street rod and performance enthusiasts, where they’ll have the equipment to properly measure the bump steer throughout the suspension travel. You can also purchase home bump steer measuring tools like this one:
      https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Longacre-52-79003-Precision-Bump-Steer-Gauge-with-Billet-Plate,283093.html
      Often A-arm kits are designed to mimic stock suspension, but then the suspension is lowered throwing off the suspension geometry.
      Most at-home systems are not a replacement for an alignment rack in a qualified shop, but rather a means to get it close so you can drive it to the shop.
      I know not the answer you probably want but at the price of classic car tires a good alignment is money well spent.

      Wrench Safe,

      Mark
      Classic Car Restoration Club

      Reply
  14. George McNeley

    My question is there a newer transmission that will connect to a 1955 Ford F-100 233 6 cylinder without many problems?

    Reply
    • Customer Service

      Hi George. To make the conversion you’ll need a transmission adapter.

      Bendtsen Transmission makes the Speed Gem adapters that would even let your connect a AOD transmission to your engine.
      Here is a link to their site: http://www.transmissionadapters.com
      Tell Bob we sent you!

      You may also find an adapter to a C4 transmission from Wilcap.
      Here is a link to their site:
      http://www.wilcap.com

      Wrench Safe, Mark-CCRC

      Reply
  15. joe

    I did a similar swap. A1996 302 ho/a.o.d. trans. into a 1956 f100. Some items:

    1.unit fit with no mod, cutting of body or frame. Had to make motor mount frame parts. Used I-Beam welded up to fit C shaped frame and stock ford motor mounts. rear trans mount required a different cross unit (found on a junked truck). The unit sits low, but everything fit nicely fit over the solid axil and old cross member. This required a new drive shaft (note that the shaft has offset, so u-joints have angle.)
    2.The cooling may need modification. I had to add a trans cooler and a electric fan (this is a 2 speed unit out of a Lincoln) since the engine fan was to low to cool to radiator. Check that cap used is proper for the radiator or you can blow it. An electric fuel pump was needed since the there was no michanica pump.
    You electrical system may be a consideration. 54 is 6 volt + ground generator ,302 is 12 volt – ground.
    3.My motor required changing water pump, intake with 2 bblo carb, distributor with electronic module and change of distributor grear.

    These are some of the main things I can think of and there are small things not covered. I did all work and fabrication of the swap in my garage. Iwill add a good friend, that found the motor/trans and has a long history of working of Fords and swaps.
    You can do the swap, just remember take your time, think out you moves and the think it over a second time before starting.

    Good luck

    Reply
  16. Bud Hennessy

    The swap of a 302 or 351 Windsor version Ford motor into a 54 Ford is a popular swap and not that difficult. Anyone with experience in swapping later engines into early cars can do it. The usual swap includes an automatic transmission C4, C6 or AOD and a Mustang, Comet, Meteor, Versailles or similar size Ford rear axle assembly. Radiator hose connection moving can be done by any competent radiator repair shop. Wiring should be upgraded too, as well as 12v alternator, coil, regulator, light bulbs, etc. The brakes and steering components should also be upgraded with disc brakes, dual master cylinder and power rack and pinion steering or Borgeson power unit. If done properly, you will end up with a car that drives like a modern car, but still looks like an old classic.Might as well add AC while you are at it. Hope this helps, have fun.

    Reply
  17. Don Schools

    I’m suggesting ypu consider a a late model complete front crossmember off a Lincoln or crownvic. It’s complete and easily installed. Street rod mounts and use an overdrive trans. Or can use a manual transmission if preferences dictate. Fuel milage is much better than the old yblocks. And parts are expensive for any yblocks. Twice to three times. Plus if using later model if traveling and have issues you can get parts anywhere for it then

    Reply
  18. Pete Swarr

    I would suggest using a Ford Crown Vic cop car as a perfect donor car for everything. They are quite common, heavy duty, and have lots of options to put into the old girl.

    Reply
  19. warren

    I have a 1954 ford two door coupe with a 351 cleveland engine the only problem was the motor mounts and the trans mounts, warren

    Reply
  20. EUGENE

    BACK IN THE LATE 50’S TO EARLY 60’S I WORKED ON A LOT OF FORD Y BLOCKS. ONE 1954 FORD HAD FACTORY 239 WITH 2 BARREL CARB. RATED AT 130 HP REMOBED IT AND REPLACED IT WITH A1956 MERCURY 312 WHICH CAME WITH FACTORY 4 BARREL CARB AND WAS RATED AT 230 HP I BELIEVE. THIS MADE A HUGE PERFORMANCE INCREASE. IN 1968 WE RACED AT THE U.S. NATIONALS WITH A 57 CHEVY. SEDAN DELIVERY IN STOCK ELIMINATOR. IT WAS POWERED BY A STOCK LEGAL 283 HP ROCHESTER FUEL INJECTED 283. WE RAN CLASS AGAINST AN IMPRESSIVE 57 FORD STATION WAGON POWERED BY A FORD 312 ” Y” BLOCK WITH FACTORY SUPERCHARGER. WE HAD THE NHRA RECORD AT THE TIME BUT THE FORD BEAT US, BECAUSE OUR CAR RAN OUT OF GAS AT HALF TRACK. I ALSO HAVE A FRIEND IN MY GALAXIE CLUB THAT BUILT HIS DAILY DRIVER, A 1955 MAINLINE WITH A 460 FORD. ANOTHER COMMON SWAP IS TO USE A FORD FE ENGINE LIKE A 332-428. WHICH ORIGINATED IN 1958. AT THE SAME TIME THEY STILL USED THE “Y”. BLOCK. THIS SHOULD BE ALMOST A BOLT IN SWAP.

    Reply
  21. Rob Brownell

    I have found that using motor mounts from the early small block fords IE (260 – 289) from 63 – 64 full & mid-size car’s will allow the 302 to fit in the older cars, the mount bolts on the block & has a stud bolting it to the motor mount block on the frame, you will have to up grade the transmission to fit the new engine & may have to modify your existing cross-member to accommodate the new transmission

    Reply
  22. Leeand

    Hello there. The very best place for information on your 54′ Mainline, is to go to the 1954 Ford Club of America. The Club Members are 54′ Ford Enthusiasts and many members have done this 302 swap, so the should know all of the tricks of this procedure. Here is the link, http://www.1954ford.com/. I also have a 54′ Customline, but it has a 1959 Mercury 312 in it.

    Reply
  23. joe ennesser

    On this swap, I did a similar swap in a ’56 F100. I had (and still do) 233 with the 4 speed granny stick. The change was made to a low milage ’92 HO 302 that had burned on the top (manifold and F.i.)and with the AOD trans. This made a very nice swap. It will require thinking about some engine modifications, if you use an engine of this year or later .later.

    The mounting for this engine is different than the 233. The 233 has one front and two mounts on the engine and no trans. mount ,but the 302 has two mounts on the side of the engine and one at the rear of the trans… I fabricated mounting plates from an I beam and bolted and welded the to the side rails ans found a rear cross member and floor shifter on a junked little later ford pickup. Iused stock motor and trans. mounts Becase of the F 100’s underside space no cutting was required. You will need a new drive shaft and make sure there is some vertical offset between the trans and rear end (there should not be a straight line relationship.
    There are too many small things to go into, and their are many, but overall this was a nice conversion and done by myself on one side of a plain old two car garage with much junk around. I would also include that I had much tech help from a great friend,Kenny, that is a certified Ford nut. I hope this helps, there are probably differences in the units one that would be main going from a 6 volt positive ground to a 12 volt negative ground system. Good luck

    Reply