I was asked by a good friend for assistance resolving some electrical problems he was having with his 1949 Ford F1 pickup. Even after searching awhile, I could not locate the fuse block. Where is the fuse block located?
Cars and trucks prior to the 1960s seldom have what we usually recognize as a fuse block. Rather they have two, three, or four circuit breakers that look like little metal boxes with a couple of threaded studs sticking out of them. On the ’49 Ford F1 the breaker is sort of 2-in-1, but it’s still a block with metal posts sticking out, and wires attached (see photo).
Many times the circuit breakers are tucked beneath the dash or behind the kick panel cardboard and occasionally mounted to the outside firewall or inline. There will also be some electric devices that have inline fuses (i.e. radio, blower motor, clock, etc.). I believe your circuit breakers are under the dash on the right side of the instrument panel, but it’s been a while since I last worked on an F1, so crawl under and take a look.
Circuit breakers do go bad, but normally when they’re working properly, they reset themselves if blown. It’s important to note that circuit breakers do have amperage ratings like fuses, and if replacing a circuit breaker it should be matched to the original circuit load.
Is there a simple way to clean and old engine from the old engine odor. Unable to keep my car in the garage.
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What is the year, make, and model of your car?
I have rebuilt a lot of cars thet only had in line fuses, the Breaker’s were always a Pain . I have been playing with cars since a boy in my Brothers Custom Shop and Garage and I am 83 years old and rebuilding a 51/52 Studebaker truck at this time. i also am rebuilding for the third time in 12 years a 1901 Oldsmobile Curved Dash reproduction but not one built in the 50’s and 70’s. Mine was built by a PG&E Engineer in the mid 1940’s. I do drive it on California Highways and Freeways. It was Grandfathered in 1952. It can be seen on my Facebook and Google sites under my real name.
I asked a question about my Wife’s ’61 Impala. After posting, it stated: Waiting Moderation….Next thing I knew, it was totally Deleted. Thanks boys, you guys are a great thoughtful bunch to an 83 year old!…….NOT!!! The least you guys could have done was Give me an Explanation! I will NOT be joining your site!
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My wife is Orig. Owner of a ’61 Impala. I recently installed Glove Box light harness & a new interior side lights switch in door jam. Since then, we have No Dash lights, No Tail or Stop lights & No interior dome lights. They all worked fine before I installed these 2 items! Any Help would be appreciated??? Thanks, Richard Ochoa
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I hope you are using the correct gauge wire. My ’41 F-5 (6v) was wired rewired with 12 gauge or less wire. The three taillights would come on one at a time. The circuit breaker would throw on the headlights then reset.
Bench test your starter to see if it works properly making sure the gear pops out and turns when engaging power. If it does work properly then you have a fitment problem with a mismatched part or you need shims to make it fit properly.
I have a 62 C10 pickup that I rewired and now there seems that something causes my battery to drain. New battery installed and when started it shows 14 volts and after a period of time not driving or starting the truck when I do it shows 12 or less volts and I can’t figure it out. There is no radio in the truck and the headlights are not on. I need some advise.
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I once had a Ford Escort that had a diode failure in the alternator on the way home. It drained the battery so low that the engine would die and of course since the voltage was so low I could not start the engine. Called my wife and used my jumper cables (everyone should have a set in their trunk). I would get another 10 miles until I had to use the jumper cables again. Rinse/repeat until I got home. Replaced the alternator and everything was fine. Something like this may be your problem.
I have changed the alternator and it was good all the time, also replaced the battery and it was good at 14 volts for about 2 months then when started one day it was at 12 volts. I do keep the battery on a battery tender but because we are working on the truck it’s has not been driven much.
If you have a multimeter set it on amps and connect between disconnected NEG cable and NEG post on battery. You should have a reading of about 10 mA, up to 50 mA if you have several computers on board. If excessive, pull fuses, one at a time until load goes away. That is your problem circuit
A test light may be used in place of meter, but not as accurate.
Just installed a compact mini starter on my 34 coupe with a 350 GM motor. It turns over but doesn’t engage the flywheel. And suggestions, I suspect it’s a wiring issue?
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
I had a similar issue on my ’35 Chevy… The GM crate used the small flexplate and when the high-torque starter was engaged the drive gear on the starter would just run into the side of the flexplate gear and never engage.
I tried everything to get it to work… shims, clocking, beveling the teeth on the starter to get it to engage better, etc… it did sort of work but occasionally took several turns of the ket to get it to engage.
Frustrated and with a local car show I wanted to attend just days away, I went to the local auto parts store and purchased a cheap $24 remanufactured starter for an 80’s Camaro to see if that could help as they too used the small flexplate.
I bolted it in and it started right up, as opposed to the starter I paid ten-times as much for, I told myself after the car show I’d finish sorting out why my high-tech starter wouldn’t work … that was 9-years ago… I suppose I should look into it one of these days.
My first thoughts are what size is the flywheel/flexplate? Does the starter have mounting holes for both large and small flywheels or does the block have dual mounting holes? Is your motor a crate GM motor or ?? Is it a flexplate or a flywheel (automatic or manual transmission)? If I read correctly the starter is spinning but not engaging the flywheel… if that’s correct, bench test it… you can do it under the car too, simply unbolt the starter leaving the wires attached, and use a jumper cable to ground the starter to the engine block.
Have someone turn the key with the engine free of the engine and check to see if the gear extends and rotates. (Naturally have your car properly supported when working beneath it). If the starter checks out, double check that the flywheel gears are visible through the starter opening and they are in the correct area to engage the starter.
Classic Car Restoration Club Expert
Your starter must have come with shims. Check and see if it is Engaging with the flywheel?
Either solenoid wired wrong or bad solenoid…….
There is no fuse box wires on the fire wall.
2 circuit breakers on back side is inst. panel fed by yel. wire which passes thru charge indicator. 1 for headlight circuit 1 for ign sw.