Powder coating gives you one of the most economical, color-durable, and longest lasting finishes available. Whether you’re coating engine brackets, master cylinders, or valve covers, there is simply no better way to apply a good looking yet tough finish. Mark Simpson takes us step-by-step through the powder coating process using the Eastwood HotCoat powder coating system. This system is a “must have”, for any enthusiast who is serious about completing high-quality restorations. You’ll see first hand how easy it is to create finishes that are far more resistant to chipping, scratches and wear than other finishes, and the color selection is virtually unlimited, with high and low gloss, metallic, and clear finishes available. The Eastwood UV-resistant powder coat colors stay bright and vibrant longer; but also check out their complete line of powder coating supplies, sure to give you all the help you need. These include powder coat paint guns, silicone plugs, hanging hooks, spray booths, ovens and more.
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16:01How to Use a Bead Roller and Skates on Your Classic Car
The Bead Roller is a handy tool that provides extra strength by adding ridges to your sheet metal. Mark Oja and Cam Benty demonstrate how to use a Bead Roller on your classic car to add a little extra flair and strength to any metal you have.
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1:46Intro to Front Sheet Metal Install and Necessary Car Parts
Craig Hopkins teaches you how to mount front sheet metals on a car to get rid of a rusty mess. He briefs you on the new car parts you will need such as a hood, fenders, and hinges. You do not need new hardware, but Craig suggests you buy it to save yourself future trouble.
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0:56Replacing Bolts on Classic Muscle Cars
Because classic muscle cars are usually older, their owners typically have to replace bolts more often than those of modern cars. Mark Oja teaches you two ways to do so, with one being more costly than the other. Once you determine that the bolts you removed are correct, Mark suggests buying a complete bolt replacement…
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7:41Classic Car Polishing Preparation
Craig Hopkins prepares you to polish your classic car with 1000, 1500, and 3000 grit sandpaper without scratching the paint, and then shows you the sanding technique with paint sticks, blocks, and a water blade to get the perfect finish. Make sure all of your equipment is clean!
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Nice video but how do you know how long to leave the part in the oven? thinner pieces compared to heavier ones, does the part need to come up to a certain temp.?
Hi, Jerry. You are correct in that it takes a little longer for thicker and larger pieces to come up to temp. The flow out process can be seen visually as the powder melts and takes on a smooth sheen. Once the powder has melted and flowed out the piece remains in the oven as at a molecular level the powder material begins a process of cross-linking and bonding with the base material.
While I am not a professional powder coater the results I achieved were every bit as good as professional work I’ve had done elsewhere. When working with the material I found no adverse effects to letting the part stay in 5-10 minutes longer if I was in doubt of the piece being up to temperature for a long enough period.
The entire kit came with a very good instruction book that even covered how to deal with coating problems. Overall this was a great addition to the shop, and has already paid for itself.
I have the same system from Eastwood. I’ve had good results thus far. Bought a 30″ wall mount oven for the shop. For the most part, if you can fit it in the oven without knocking off the powder you’re all set.
Each powder has instructions for baking, so far the powder I’m using requires 450 for 10 minutes then 400 for 20 minutes. If a part is heavy, at the end of the baking time I will turn off the oven and leave it in to cool.
When powder coating the master cylinder do you have to take out the rubber seals in the cylinder before baking?
Hello Chris,
We remove the main piston in the Master cylinder, but on drum brake master cylinders there are residual pressure check valves with rubber seals in the line ports.
Brake component rubber is generally high-quality rubber made to withstand harsh fluids and heat.
The powder coating process heats everything to 400-420 degrees Fahrenheit, which is below the 500-600 degree range where rubber begins to soften or melt.
I would imagine it is possible some builder/rebuilders may use inferior components that are affected by lower temps, although we have never had an issue with any master cylinder we have powder coated.
Wrench safe,
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