Powder coating gives you one of the most economical, color-durable, and longest lasting finishes available. Whether you’re coating engine brackets, master cylinders, or valve covers, there is simply no better way to apply a good looking yet tough finish. Mark Simpson takes us step-by-step through the powder coating process using the Eastwood HotCoat powder coating system. This system is a “must have”, for any enthusiast who is serious about completing high-quality restorations. You’ll see first hand how easy it is to create finishes that are far more resistant to chipping, scratches and wear than other finishes, and the color selection is virtually unlimited, with high and low gloss, metallic, and clear finishes available. The Eastwood UV-resistant powder coat colors stay bright and vibrant longer; but also check out their complete line of powder coating supplies, sure to give you all the help you need. These include powder coat paint guns, silicone plugs, hanging hooks, spray booths, ovens and more.
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1:28Sheet Metal Shrinker/Stretcher For Your Classic Car
A sheet metal shrinker/stretcher is perfect for any type of metal fabrication you need for your classic car, and it keeps the metal completely flat (without crimps). Mark Oja gives a brief demonstration on how the stretcher works and then shows you an example of a finished product.
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12:05Classic Car Restoration: Cut-Down Techniques
Craig Hopkins gives you different tips and tricks to help cut down the metal on a classic car panel without damaging the base. You must make sure to push the metal over weld, rather than attacking it, to avoid tearing the base metal. You will also learn how to get spot welds out. Use this…
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3:30Trial Fitting on the Classic Car Quarter Panel
Since you will butt weld the new quarter panel to the roof and existing quarter panel, Craig Hopkins teaches you how to remove a quarter of an inch from the roof without cutting through the existing car quarter panel. Then, he’ll apply some weld through primer to the step you just created and rest the…
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5:18Project Car Buying Advice
Buying a car to restore may not be as stressful as looking for a new project car, but there are still important aspects to look for. Brent Ackley tells you what areas to examine to get the finished product you desire depending on how much money you want to spend and the amount of time…
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Nice video but how do you know how long to leave the part in the oven? thinner pieces compared to heavier ones, does the part need to come up to a certain temp.?
Hi, Jerry. You are correct in that it takes a little longer for thicker and larger pieces to come up to temp. The flow out process can be seen visually as the powder melts and takes on a smooth sheen. Once the powder has melted and flowed out the piece remains in the oven as at a molecular level the powder material begins a process of cross-linking and bonding with the base material.
While I am not a professional powder coater the results I achieved were every bit as good as professional work I’ve had done elsewhere. When working with the material I found no adverse effects to letting the part stay in 5-10 minutes longer if I was in doubt of the piece being up to temperature for a long enough period.
The entire kit came with a very good instruction book that even covered how to deal with coating problems. Overall this was a great addition to the shop, and has already paid for itself.
I have the same system from Eastwood. I’ve had good results thus far. Bought a 30″ wall mount oven for the shop. For the most part, if you can fit it in the oven without knocking off the powder you’re all set.
Each powder has instructions for baking, so far the powder I’m using requires 450 for 10 minutes then 400 for 20 minutes. If a part is heavy, at the end of the baking time I will turn off the oven and leave it in to cool.
When powder coating the master cylinder do you have to take out the rubber seals in the cylinder before baking?
Hello Chris,
We remove the main piston in the Master cylinder, but on drum brake master cylinders there are residual pressure check valves with rubber seals in the line ports.
Brake component rubber is generally high-quality rubber made to withstand harsh fluids and heat.
The powder coating process heats everything to 400-420 degrees Fahrenheit, which is below the 500-600 degree range where rubber begins to soften or melt.
I would imagine it is possible some builder/rebuilders may use inferior components that are affected by lower temps, although we have never had an issue with any master cylinder we have powder coated.
Wrench safe,
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