An engine cooling system without water seems like science fiction, but the folks at Evans Cooling are rethinking the way cooling systems work. Water can be a good and evil component in any engine’s cooling system. While it does provide the necessary cooling our engines need its corrosive properties rusts our water jackets, clogs our heater cores and destroys our water pumps. It’s narrow temperature range makes it prone to freezing and boiling, and steam pockets inside the engine can leave hot spots that can contribute to engine failure. Join Mark Simpson and Bob Wilson of RJ Restorations in Farmington, MN as they convert a ’69 Mustang Mach 1 to Evans Waterless Coolant and explore the challenges of purging ALL water from the system as well as real benefits of this conversion.
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14:12Classic Car Engine Assembly
Brent Ackley teaches you how to properly assemble a classic car engine at your own pace, with in-depth instructions for installing the crank and cam shafts, inserting the main oil bearings, assembling and removing the pistons and putting the timing cover on.
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4:08Classic Car Restoration: Setting the Dwell
Classic Car restoration is an exciting and hard working project. In this video, Brent Ackley shows you how to approximately position the points on a classic car’s engine, safely use the dwell meter and adjust the points for the perfect distance. One of the techniques can be done individually while the other needs a partner.
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8:09Replacing an Oil Pan Gasket
Nobody likes an oil drip! George Vondriska shows you how to reach and replace the oil pan on a 1977 Chevy 454. Before recording the video, he drained the oil from the pan and removed the filter to get access to the oil filter adapter. Use these helpful tips presented to replace the oil pan…
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3:17The Shade Tree Mechanic: Engine Repair
George Vondriska pops the hood on Brent Ackley’s 1966 Buick Skylark to take a look at its 225 V6 engine and talk about what it means to be a shade tree mechanic, or someone who can learn to fix some of the problems in a car’s engine with the basic tools they have lying around…
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How do you know that after using the PRE Fluid that all of the water is out of the cooling system?
Hi Tom. There is No Way to test that the water has been fully removed, so you are relying solely on knowing you have fully drained the system, and the PreFluid taking any remaining water out of the system. It’s not a perfect process but with a little care and attention we were able to purge over 99.8% percent of the water in the system.
Wrench Safe, Mark
CCRC
Water is a very efficient fluid for heat transfer. How does Evans compare to water or water and antifreeze in heat transfer efficiency?
Hi Michael. Water is an excellent heat-transfer medium when liquid, but it changes state. When it boils at 212° F, it creates vapor pockets that can insulate and hold heat in the metal rather than transferring heat away. This can occur even in pockets within the engine, even though the coolant is at normal operating tempeatures.
Traditional, fully formulated coolants prevent freezing to -34° F. It also raises the boiling point to 224°. Since engines operate at close to water’s boiling point, the glycol adds a safety margin to prevent boil-over. Additional margin is provided by pressurizing the closed cooling system to 1 atmosphere (15 psi) above ambient. With the pressure cap, water boils at 250° and 50/50 coolant boils at 263°.
Waterless coolant, however, won’t freeze below 40° F and boils at above 375° — even without pressurization — giving a huge safety margin. Water carries scale-forming minerals, so waterless coolant prevents scale buildup. It doesn’t need a 15-psi radiator cap — the manufacturer recommends 1 to 2 psi, just enough to close the system. With no water to boil off, localized hot spots and mineral deposits are avoided.
Thanks
Mark-CCRC
Hello! This looks awesome for my ’72 Pontiac, especially since I just got my radiator re-cored. If I don’t have a compressor, could I run the engine up to temp, turn on the heater, and flush out the heater core that way? (My car has A/C.) Thanks!
Hello George,
No, that won’t work. You don’t want to be draining your system with the engine running, nor would I trust the prep fluid alone to eliminate all of the water in the heater core.
This is a low pressure purge, so perhaps a small portable tire inflation compressor could get the job done.
Thanks,
Mark CCRC Video Membership
I have two antique cars made in 1929 & 1931. They have non pressurized cooling systems, would this product provide any real benefit for these systems?
Hello Rick,
I would think that this product would a good alternative… higher boiling point, lower freezing point and no corrosion in a product designed for low and no pressure situations.
Thanks,
Mark CCRC Video Membership
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership.
http://go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C8826