An engine cooling system without water seems like science fiction, but the folks at Evans Cooling are rethinking the way cooling systems work. Water can be a good and evil component in any engine’s cooling system. While it does provide the necessary cooling our engines need its corrosive properties rusts our water jackets, clogs our heater cores and destroys our water pumps. It’s narrow temperature range makes it prone to freezing and boiling, and steam pockets inside the engine can leave hot spots that can contribute to engine failure. Join Mark Simpson and Bob Wilson of RJ Restorations in Farmington, MN as they convert a ’69 Mustang Mach 1 to Evans Waterless Coolant and explore the challenges of purging ALL water from the system as well as real benefits of this conversion.
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Classic Car Engine Dress Up
Cam Benty shows off a stunning 1968 327 Camaro and discusses how the car engine area underneath the hood can look even better. He previews all sorts of chrome parts, including valve covers, an air cleaner, spark plug wire holders and more, that will make your classic car engine really shine.
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Classic Car Maintenance Tips: Timing the Engine
Brent Ackley teaches you how to correctly install a distributor into the engine of a 1956 Chevrolet 150, walking you step by step through the process and demonstrating the essential classic car maintenance tips and techniques you’ll need to utilize. He shows the proper method for opening the intake valves in order to drop in…
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Classic Car Radiator Cap Performance Test
George Vondriska teaches how to use a pressurized device to test the performance of your classic car’s radiator system and radiator cap to prevent the parts from leaking. Also see how this technique prevents the engine of your classic car from overheating.
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Classic Car Engine Assembly
Brent Ackley teaches you how to properly assemble a classic car engine at your own pace, with in-depth instructions for installing the crank and cam shafts, inserting the main oil bearings, assembling and removing the pistons and putting the timing cover on.
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How do you know that after using the PRE Fluid that all of the water is out of the cooling system?
Hi Tom. There is No Way to test that the water has been fully removed, so you are relying solely on knowing you have fully drained the system, and the PreFluid taking any remaining water out of the system. It’s not a perfect process but with a little care and attention we were able to purge over 99.8% percent of the water in the system.
Wrench Safe, Mark
CCRC
Water is a very efficient fluid for heat transfer. How does Evans compare to water or water and antifreeze in heat transfer efficiency?
Hi Michael. Water is an excellent heat-transfer medium when liquid, but it changes state. When it boils at 212° F, it creates vapor pockets that can insulate and hold heat in the metal rather than transferring heat away. This can occur even in pockets within the engine, even though the coolant is at normal operating tempeatures.
Traditional, fully formulated coolants prevent freezing to -34° F. It also raises the boiling point to 224°. Since engines operate at close to water’s boiling point, the glycol adds a safety margin to prevent boil-over. Additional margin is provided by pressurizing the closed cooling system to 1 atmosphere (15 psi) above ambient. With the pressure cap, water boils at 250° and 50/50 coolant boils at 263°.
Waterless coolant, however, won’t freeze below 40° F and boils at above 375° — even without pressurization — giving a huge safety margin. Water carries scale-forming minerals, so waterless coolant prevents scale buildup. It doesn’t need a 15-psi radiator cap — the manufacturer recommends 1 to 2 psi, just enough to close the system. With no water to boil off, localized hot spots and mineral deposits are avoided.
Thanks
Mark-CCRC
Hello! This looks awesome for my ’72 Pontiac, especially since I just got my radiator re-cored. If I don’t have a compressor, could I run the engine up to temp, turn on the heater, and flush out the heater core that way? (My car has A/C.) Thanks!
Hello George,
No, that won’t work. You don’t want to be draining your system with the engine running, nor would I trust the prep fluid alone to eliminate all of the water in the heater core.
This is a low pressure purge, so perhaps a small portable tire inflation compressor could get the job done.
Thanks,
Mark CCRC Video Membership
I have two antique cars made in 1929 & 1931. They have non pressurized cooling systems, would this product provide any real benefit for these systems?
Hello Rick,
I would think that this product would a good alternative… higher boiling point, lower freezing point and no corrosion in a product designed for low and no pressure situations.
Thanks,
Mark CCRC Video Membership
We’d love to have you be a part of our community. We are convinced you will enjoy the benefits of becoming a member and having access to the best instructional how to videos and professional tips. We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first year membership.
http://go.ClassicCarRestorationClub.com/C8826