An engine cooling system without water seems like science fiction, but the folks at Evans Cooling are rethinking the way cooling systems work. Water can be a good and evil component in any engine’s cooling system. While it does provide the necessary cooling our engines need its corrosive properties rusts our water jackets, clogs our heater cores and destroys our water pumps. It’s narrow temperature range makes it prone to freezing and boiling, and steam pockets inside the engine can leave hot spots that can contribute to engine failure. Join Mark Simpson and Bob Wilson of RJ Restorations in Farmington, MN as they convert a ’69 Mustang Mach 1 to Evans Waterless Coolant and explore the challenges of purging ALL water from the system as well as real benefits of this conversion.
Tags: classic car engine tips, Free Videos, Mark Simpson, waterless engine coolant
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3:30To conclude the repairs made on Brent Ackley’s 1966 Buick Skylark, he and George Vondriska need to make a final inspection. They briefly cover everything under the hood from the direction of the gas filter to the transparency of the air cleaner to proper heater and radiator hoses. They’ll help you make sure the general condition
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0:59Very rarely do the gasket holes line up with bolt holes when you are replacing valve cover gaskets. Brent Ackley teaches a helpful trick to properly align these holes. Use this method to make sure you have a good seal.
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4:06Brent Ackley gives you an overview of a rebuilt 350 4 Bolt Main classic car engine that can run pump gas and now has 325-350 HP. He starts by sending the engine to the auto shop for close cleaning, measuring, and overall renewal.
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4:32If you have missing heat shields or notice spark plugs lying against the exhaust manifold, you should probably replace your spark plug wires. If you are unsure whether you need to, Brent Ackley will help you examine your valve cover and other parts to double check. After watching this video, you will know how to
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How do you know that after using the PRE Fluid that all of the water is out of the cooling system?
Hi Tom. There is No Way to test that the water has been fully removed, so you are relying solely on knowing you have fully drained the system, and the PreFluid taking any remaining water out of the system. It’s not a perfect process but with a little care and attention we were able to purge over 99.8% percent of the water in the system.
Wrench Safe, Mark
CCRC
Water is a very efficient fluid for heat transfer. How does Evans compare to water or water and antifreeze in heat transfer efficiency?
Hi Michael. Water is an excellent heat-transfer medium when liquid, but it changes state. When it boils at 212° F, it creates vapor pockets that can insulate and hold heat in the metal rather than transferring heat away. This can occur even in pockets within the engine, even though the coolant is at normal operating tempeatures.
Traditional, fully formulated coolants prevent freezing to -34° F. It also raises the boiling point to 224°. Since engines operate at close to water’s boiling point, the glycol adds a safety margin to prevent boil-over. Additional margin is provided by pressurizing the closed cooling system to 1 atmosphere (15 psi) above ambient. With the pressure cap, water boils at 250° and 50/50 coolant boils at 263°.
Waterless coolant, however, won’t freeze below 40° F and boils at above 375° — even without pressurization — giving a huge safety margin. Water carries scale-forming minerals, so waterless coolant prevents scale buildup. It doesn’t need a 15-psi radiator cap — the manufacturer recommends 1 to 2 psi, just enough to close the system. With no water to boil off, localized hot spots and mineral deposits are avoided.
Thanks
Mark-CCRC
Hello! This looks awesome for my ’72 Pontiac, especially since I just got my radiator re-cored. If I don’t have a compressor, could I run the engine up to temp, turn on the heater, and flush out the heater core that way? (My car has A/C.) Thanks!
Hello George,
No, that won’t work. You don’t want to be draining your system with the engine running, nor would I trust the prep fluid alone to eliminate all of the water in the heater core.
This is a low pressure purge, so perhaps a small portable tire inflation compressor could get the job done.
Thanks,
Mark CCRC Video Membership
I have two antique cars made in 1929 & 1931. They have non pressurized cooling systems, would this product provide any real benefit for these systems?
Hello Rick,
I would think that this product would a good alternative… higher boiling point, lower freezing point and no corrosion in a product designed for low and no pressure situations.
Thanks,
Mark CCRC Video Membership
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