Managing Editor Mark Simpson and special guest Ross Kiehl spent an hour answering viewer questions regarding car repair, maintenance and restoration.
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CCRC LIVE! January 2022
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1:02:30CCRC LIVE! October 2021
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I had already thought about doing an Internet search with the OEM part number for parts, but what are some good sources for parts manuals/catalogs for your vehicle? I looked on Ebay but didn’t come up with anything. Thanks, Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Thank you for your patience while I asked the experts, here is the reply:
One great source for auto literature I’ve used in the past is Faxon Literature.
Here is a link to their site: https://www.faxonautoliterature.com (https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/)
Wrench Safe,
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
Hello guys, I have a 68 coupe that originally had a straight six 200ci. The previous owner installed a 289 and still has the Four bolt lugs. Do I need to reinforce the frame/suspension to facilitate the heavier 289 daily driver?
Hi William,
Here is what the expert had to say:
There is no difference in the frame, as the Mustang is a Uni-body car, although the front spindles are heavier on the V8 cars and the brakes are larger too.
Your rear axle is also not designed to take the torque of the V8 engine.
I would be inclined to upgrade the brakes, front suspension and rear axle if you intend to travel a lot in the car.
But if you drive conservatively and only plan to attend local events it may be fine as is.
Wrench Safe,
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club
is anyone there?
Hi Bill,
Thank you for contacting us.
We are here did you want to make a comment or ask a question?
If you have any other concerns, please contact us at 1-855-706-3534, or chat with us on our site.
We greatly appreciate your business!
Sincerely,
Joan
Classic Car Restoration Club Video Membership
Hi Mark,
I have a Daimler SP250 which is fibreglass. What is the best preparation prior to paint and recommendation on modern paint to use. Thanks David
Hi David,
Here is what the expert had to say:
Fiberglass can be handled much the same as steel. After sanding the original finish, I like to start with Epoxy primer to seal up the surface and give me a solid foundation for any skim coats or filler needed. I then apply a few coats of a two-part primer surfacer, with block sanding between coats. Once satisfied with the smoothness of the surface, I give it a final coat of Epoxy Primer and let it rest for a couple weeks. (I know new products don’t require time to outgas any solvents but I am a creature of habit) I then scuff the surface with 320-grit, wash down with wax and grease remover, tack rag off any dust and I am ready for paint.
Any major brand premium paint will be a good choice, I’ve also had good luck with TPC Globals ( https://tcpglobal.com/pages/restoration-shop ) Restoration Shop paints.
Wrench Safe,
Mark
Classic Car Restoration Club